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Lying Gently on my Mind

The lovely story below was written by Robert Holden and appeared in the Ileach of 16 July. Robert: I have worn several ‘business’ hats in my Islay life. Nothing like as many as my friend Seumas (I always called him Mr) MacSporran who sported fourteen while living on Gigha – and all at the same time! – but my last regular contact with Islay was as skipper of a yacht doing charters pretty well all around the Hebrides; a magnificent, delightful, challenging, and sometimes even frightening job of work. A surprising number of clients must have enjoyed it, as so many of them came back year after year, and one question nearly everybody asked was “What is your favourite anchorage?”, and very difficult to answer. I think we got it whittled down to a ‘Top Ten’: places like Acarsaid Mhor on South Rona, Fladday Harbour at the north of Raasay, Loch Spelve on Mull, Outer Oitir Bay on Kerrera, Tinker’s Hole on Earraid, Scalpay Harbour, Eriskay, Loch Scavaig on Skye; even Village Bay St. Kilda. Favourites varied depending on how perfect the weather was for different friends, but always included were Bagh Gleann na Muc in the Corryvreckan, Ardmore Islets on the north-east corner of Islay, and West Loch Tarbert, Jura.

Always for me the last two mentioned were very near to the top of the list, and one cruise to Ardmore with a family party of five was quite memorable. Leaving Crinan the weather was perfect, and with a light westerly breeze Ailsa, eldest daughter of the family and all of seven years (roughly), competently took the tiller for a spell reaching down the Sound of Jura. I shouldn’t have been surprised as her mother is a Shetlander. She took a keen interest in passing sea-birds, so I got her to make a list and identify each one as we coasted along. At the end of the day I asked her what the score was. “Fourteen, if you count goats and jellyfish!” she told me.

Continue Reading »

Kiloran Bay colonsayI’ve visited Colonsay for the first time in early May this year with my family when I made a day trip from the Isle of Islay. We arrived around 11 am at Scalasaig with the Hebridean Isles ferry from Calmac. This ferry sails from Kennacraig to Oban via Port Askaig and Colonsay on Wednesday’s only. For visitors of Islay a unique opportunity to visit a neighbouring islands and for others perhaps a change to do a one day “mini cruise” from Kennacraig to Oban and back. Such a mini cruise is great on a clear day when you have beautiful views over many of the islands in the Southern Hebrides such as Islay, Jura, Colonsay, Mull, the Slate Islands, Scarba and Kerrera.

Back to Colonsay now. Scalasaig is a wee, albeit the largest settlement, spread over quite a large area and has, besides a hotel, brewery, and a beautiful church an excellent shop annex post office annex petrol station. The reason why I mention this shop is that when you’re out and about for a day on Colonsay you might want to stock up first because this is in fact the only shop on the island. If you’re a day tripper from Islay you’ll have about six hours to discover the island before you have to return to Scalasaig for the return ferry.

If you’re a first time visitor of Colonsay and arrive at Scalasaig either with a car of bike you’re probably doing the circular road which starts and ends in Scalasaig. The best known attractions on Colonsay are Kiloran Bay in the north-west of the island, Colonsay House and Gardens in the centre of the island, the House of Lochar bookshop in the west not far from the golf course/landing strip and Oronsay with it’s priory in the south. The island is also an excellent place to to discover by foot

Of course there are other means of visiting Colonsay besides a day trip to the island from Islay. The island has direct ferry and air services with Oban. Colonsay has some excellent facilities such as b&b’s, guesthouses, a hotel and a good selection of self catering cottages which makes the island a perfect destination for a longer stay. For more information you can visit the Colonsay page on this site or the Colonsay community website

I came across this lovely video of Easdale, the Slate islands and some views of Oban. I hope you like it too!

High Cross Oronsay Priory

High Cross Oronsay Priory

On a bright Wednesday morning, Susan Campbell from Islay’s Newspaper the Ileach set off with a large crowd of WalkIslay participants on the ferry from Port Askaig for a day out in the isles of Colonsay and Oronsay. James How of RSPB Islay, previously warden at the RSPB reserve on Oronsay, was leading this day’s walk. WalkIslay organisers had checked that the tides would give time for crossing the ford between the islands, giving us some time to explore Oronsay. Maybe especially because of this fairly rare chance of the tides fitting in with ferry times, there were quite a number of Islay people amongst the folk gathered for the outing.

On the ferry trip out, most of us had a good CalMac breakfast, and some of us checked our maps and got ourselves orientated. It wasn’t long until we were ashore on Scalasaig pier in Colonsay. As the Colonsay minibus wasn’t available, some of the walk leaders with vehicles gave lifts for the 3.5 miles to the road-end, where the ford across The Strand to Oronsay starts. This is as far as vehicles are allowed. Others of the party walked some or all of the way from Scalasaig to the ford. We all met at the road-end, where James How gave a short talk about Oronsay, as did Crystal, the current RSPB warden on Oronsay. Continue Reading »

Tropical Image Isle of Iona

Jill Kooijman sent me a stunning, almost tropical looking image of a beautiful day in the Southern Hebrides which she wanted to share with others, for which I’m very grateful. The image was taken from the north-eastern tip of the Isle of Iona looking across the Caolas Annraidh to Eilean Annraidh. Notice the yacht on the left and the beautiful white sandy beaches which makes the tranquil view complete. The Isle of Mull is visible in the distance.

The Isle of Iona on a Beautiful Day

The Isle of Iona on a Beautiful Day

Hebridean PrincessThe Scotsman published an article by Gareth Moore titled Inner Hebrides Cruise. In fact it’s more a travel report about a cruise in November, a time when the first winter storms hit the west of Scotland which, as the author confirms, results in alterations in the schedule. Gareth choose not just a cruise ship but embarked on the Hebridean Princess, a familiar sight in the Inner Hebridean waters and according to the writer a floating palace of pampering. I myself never had the pleasure of making such a cruise but if I would I know that the Inner Hebrides would be my nr1 choice for making a cruise in Scotland. To share this fantastic experience I’ll offer you a quote of this highly interesting article. With impeccable service, an intimate atmosphere and heart-stoppingly beautiful scenery, a cruise around the Inner Hebrides recharges body and soul: Continue Reading »

I have posted this article on my Islay Blog earlier today and I want to share it with the readers here as well: “Ever wondered what the Calmac crew were up to when you arrived safely on your destination and drove off the ferry? Well the answer can be found on Youtube. The crew from one of Calmac’s vessels created a video called ‘Heb Madness’ imitating the band Madness on board one of their vessels. The video is big fun and now they are challenging the crews from other vessels to try and beat them. This is going to be an interesting competition and I can already picture a couple of titles. How about ‘One Sail Beyond’ ‘Nightboat to Oban’ ‘Our Boat’ or ‘It must be Calmac’. For now enjoy the video, it’s great!”

Mull Tips from a Visitor

When I wrote the travel report about Mull a while back one of the readers sent me an email with some additional information. It’s always good to get some “inside information” and I have decided to publish vicky’s comments here on the blog: “Of the countless castles I’ve visited in Western Scotland, Torosay Castle rates the most visitor-friendly. No ribbons barring tourists from sitting in the parlor chairs and one vast room devoted to library tables piled with scrapbooks inviting you to delve into the life and history of the resident family. I could have spent an entire day looking at vintage photos and reading old newspaper clippings. And how cool is this(?): A hand-written sign at the bottom of the staircase said (as best I can recall), “These stairs lead to our living quarters. You won’t find us all that interesting but if you want, do come on up.” That was in 2005. I really hope it is still as wonderfully quirky and accessible.”

Duart Castle from the Mull Ferry

Duart Castle from the Mull Ferry

Vicky also mentioned something about fish and chips: “The best fish and chips in all of Scotland are served daily from a food caravan on the Tobermory Pier. to convince you have a look here. The site has an interesting article: “The Prince of Wales gave a fish-and-chip van the royal seal of approval as he paid a visit to Scotland yesterday.” They report that, “The Prince tasted fresh scallops from the Fisherman’s Pier chip van in Tobermory, Mull, and declared them “delicious”,” before adding that, “Owners Jeanette Gallagher and Jane MacLean were delighted to serve the royal visitor with some local produce.” According to Vicky The line starts forming a good half hour before they open. Bring your own napkins and plan to eat standing up unless you can find a curb or lobster pot to sit on.

Shipwreck Scottish WatersSome of the secrets and mysteries surrounding Scotland’s rich marine heritage could soon be revealed according to the Scottish government. The Scottish Marine Bill aims to improve the protection of Scotland’s treasured marine heritage and our understanding and enjoyment of it. It is hoped that technological advances and opportunities for closer co-operation on survey and data collection, will help locate undiscovered marine heritage sites such as historic shipwrecks. And under the Bill, a new Historic Marine Protected Area provision will allow a broader range of historic assets to be protected in a proportionate manner. Continue Reading »

A Land that Lies WestwardThe eighth International Conference on the Languages of Scotland and Ulster was held at the Columba Centre (Ionad Chaluim Chille Ìle), Isle of Islay in July 2006. Although papers from the entire field of Scottish and Ulster language study were included, a special focus was on the areas of Islay, Jura and coastal mainland Argyll. The languages, place-names, culture, history, literature and culture of this distinctive area of Scotland were examined in papers which are revised and edited for this publication by Derrick McClure, John Kirk and Margaret Storrie, presenting a fascinating collection of new studies by leading scholars.

Earra-Ghaidheil, ‘the coast of the Gael’, was where the Gaelic language was first established in Scotland, and the collection begins with an account of the Gaelic of South Argyll by scholar and researcher, George Jones. Concentrating on Jura Gaelic and its differences from Islay Gaelic, Jones provides a detailed linguistic examination and calls for further research to be done while native speakers remain alive, for sadly Jura Gaelic appears to be in terminal decline.

The theme of place-names is continued in papers by Peter Drummond of Glasgow University and Paul Tempan, researcher in the Northern Ireland Place-name Project. They present complementary studies of place-names, the first concentrating on mountain names in Islay and Jura and the second extending the discussion in time and space by tracing ancient Indo-European roots of the word structures, and examining instances of it in Ireland. Continue Reading »

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