Gareth: North-west seven to severe gale nine, backing south-west five to six. Rough or very rough.” The forecast on the television in our cabin spoke volumes: for once, the crew of the Hebridean Princess would not be pushing the boat out for us. The sea was too rough to go ashore by motor launch for a visit to one of Islay’s famous distilleries. Guests wouldn’t have been digesting their breakfast, they’d have been wearing it. Not that the 30 or so passengers aboard appeared to mind. If you’re going to cruise the Inner Hebrides in early November you have to expect a few alterations to your schedule. And there can be few more pleasant places to be stuck than the Princess, a floating palace of pampering. From the minute you step aboard to be greeted by the chief purser, to the moment when you walk down the gangway for the last time, the officers and crew attend to your every need. When you enter your cabin, a decanter of malt whisky is waiting. Leave your cabin in a mess and it will be tidy when you return, however brief your absence. And there’s no chance of emptying your wine glass at lunch or dinner before a sommelier arrives to top it up. The crew – a mix of British seamen and “hotel” staff who are mostly from the Baltic states – are there to please, and do their job superbly.

The cruise started from Oban on a dreich Wednesday that had never managed to get properly light. When we visited Torosay Castle on Mull, we walked back instead of waiting for the bus. And at Crinan, on the Kintyre peninsula, we borrowed bikes to cycle the length of the canal. We also used the bikes for a round trip of the beautiful island of Colonsay, the visual highlight of a cruise filled with quite stunning scenery. And when the ship moored at Tobermory for a morning’s shopping – not something my partner or I regard as a legitimate leisure activity – the first officer was happy to take us for a spin round the bay in the ship’s speedboat. Much of the pleasure on the cruise, though, was simply that – cruising slowly between the coast and the Inner Hebrides, sitting in the lounge or the glassed-in conservatories on each side of the ship, or standing on the open Skye deck at the stern, enjoying the kind of views that compare well with anything on the planet. One passenger who had never seen the west coast kept making exclamations of pleasure at the sight of the landscape.

Some facts about the Hebridean Island Cruises: Hebridean Island Cruises begins its 2010 itinerary on 1 March. Its last sailing begins on 16 November. Prices range from £986 per person up to £11,020, depending on which cruise you opt for, the time of year and the type of cabin. For more details call the company’s Skipton head office on 01756 704704 or visit www.hebridean.co.uk

Duart Castle from the Mull Ferry

Vicky also mentioned something about fish and chips: “The best fish and chips in all of Scotland are served daily from a food caravan on the Tobermory Pier. to convince you have a look here. The site has an interesting article: “The Prince of Wales gave a fish-and-chip van the royal seal of approval as he paid a visit to Scotland yesterday.” They report that, “The Prince tasted fresh scallops from the Fisherman’s Pier chip van in Tobermory, Mull, and declared them “delicious”,” before adding that, “Owners Jeanette Gallagher and Jane MacLean were delighted to serve the royal visitor with some local produce.” According to Vicky The line starts forming a good half hour before they open. Bring your own napkins and plan to eat standing up unless you can find a curb or lobster pot to sit on.

Levels of protection will be targeted according to the needs of each asset. Speaking at Holyrood’s Marine Bill Conference in Edinburgh today, Environment Secretary Richard Lochhead said, ‘The Scottish Marine Bill offers the exciting opportunity to make even more of our historic and cultural heritage which we ignore at our peril. The popularity of shipwreck diving in Orkney and the Sound of Mull means that Scotland can already lay claim to the title of ‘shipwreck diving capital of Europe’. ‘Diving generates millions of pounds for our economy. And thanks to these new measures there is scope to open up a whole new world of hidden treasures for divers.

We are delivering a Bill that will make the most of Scotland’s unique coastal and marine environment without spoiling our most prized treasures.’ Philip Robertson, Historic Scotland’s marine archaeology expert, said, ‘There are thousands of shipwrecks around the coast of Scotland. We also have archaeologicalsites in areas such as Orkney, Shetland and the Western Isles that we think are now underwater due to relative sea-level rise after the last Ice Age. We still have a lot to learn but the signs are that our marine heritage is immensely rich and varied, reflecting Scotland’s historic relationship with the sea. ‘The Scottish Marine Bill will help encourage responsible access to our underwater heritage and the introduction of Marine Conservation Orders will allow us to better protect those sites that need greater attention. For years we have worked closely with the diving community to monitor and protect wrecks and this Bill will make it easier for those diving to get access on a ‘look but don’t touch’ basis. ‘And for those of us who do not dive, new survey and visualisation technology is offering us all a fascinating glimpse of what lies beneath the waves.’

Earra-Ghaidheil, ‘the coast of the Gael’, was where the Gaelic language was first established in Scotland, and the collection begins with an account of the Gaelic of South Argyll by scholar and researcher, George Jones. Concentrating on Jura Gaelic and its differences from Islay Gaelic, Jones provides a detailed linguistic examination and calls for further research to be done while native speakers remain alive, for sadly Jura Gaelic appears to be in terminal decline.

The theme of place-names is continued in papers by Peter Drummond of Glasgow University and Paul Tempan, researcher in the Northern Ireland Place-name Project. They present complementary studies of place-names, the first concentrating on mountain names in Islay and Jura and the second extending the discussion in time and space by tracing ancient Indo-European roots of the word structures, and examining instances of it in Ireland.

Relationships between place-names and history is well illustrated by these papers; but the contribution by Kay Muhr shows how place-names can link to specific historical events. Clan feuds and battles, attested in both scholarly history and local tradition, receive commemoration in names on the map of Ulster, and Muhr’s account of the stories behind those names makes fascinating reading and illustrates the close cultural links uniting islands on either side of the North Channel.

Angus Macmillan’s paper gives a detailed historical study of the gradual emergence of Argyll as a politically-defined territory. The turbulent history of the region and its part in the emergence of the Scottish kingdom under the House of Canmore is illuminated, in a re-assessment of some familiar historical assumptions.

Next, Kenneth MacTaggart uses Robert Bruce’s voyage from Kintyre to Rathlin in 1306 with a MacPhedran as his steersman as the starting point of a lively account of the MacPhedran family’s connection with the Argyll to Ulster ferry. Other traditions relating to the family history are related, and MacTaggart’s paper draws on literature, archaeology, toponymy and historiography for a miscellany of information on the MacPhedran contribution to the history of Argyll.
Brian Lambkin, in the last of the historical articles, investigates a more modern link, this time a tragic one, between Ulster and Islay; the wreck of the emigrant ship ‘Exmouth of Newcastle’ on Islay’s shore in 1847. Lambkin’s article includes contemporary accounts of the wreck but also shows how it survived in memory, quoting the words of the great-grandson of a man who had been on the ship immediately before it sailed. Also quoted is Sara McCaffrey of Donegal, who took part in the ‘Exmouth’ commemmoration in Islay in 2000, and who was believed to be the last living link to the 1847 disaster.

As the current Editor of the Ileach worked closely with author, the late Joe Wiggins, on collating Joe’s memorabilia for the first draft of the ‘Exmouth’ shipwreck booklet, and former ‘Ileach’ editor Dorothy Carmichael did the final edit before publication, it was of interest to read that the scholars’ remarks about the booklet and commemoration in 2000 were very positive. ‘This remains an important reminder that the way such events are remembered may make for better or worse community relations in the present. The memory of Ulster emigration still tends to be set in terms of two separate Protestant and Catholic stories of tbe eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Rather than two separate stories, the window offered by the wreck of the Exmouth shows Catholic and Protestant family stories of emigration from Ulster entangled in history.’

Three papers on major literary figures with Argyll heritage or connections follow. William Livingston (Uilleam MacDhunleibhe) of Islay was one of the great Gaelic poets; Donald Meek argues a case for rating him the very greatest bard of the nineteenth century. Meek claims that Islay was then the very hub of the brilliant poetic and intellectual culture of the Gaidhealtachd, and Livingston emerges as a man of learning and passion, intensely aware of the wealth and antiquity of Gaelic cultural tradition and the social forces which were fundamentally changing the Gaelic world.
Christopher Whyte focuses more measuredly on Livingston’s battle-poem ‘Na Lochlannaich an lle’ (‘The Danes on Islay’), giving detailed analysis of the poet’s technique and use of literary and historical sources, demonstrating the skill and subtlety of Livingston’s writing. Readers may be enticed to further explorations of Gaelic poetry.

Twentieth-century poet George Campbell Hay is discussed by J. Derrick McClure. Though Hay is perhaps best known as a Gaelic poet, his work in Scots is an integral part of the Scots Renaissance. McClure argues that George Campbell Hay’s Scots poetry derives its individuality and distinction from the influence of rhythms and poetic structures of his native Tarbert Gaelic. Hay’s forging links between the Lowland and the Highland sides of Scotland’s culture runs deeper than the well-known fact that he wrote in all three of Scotland’s languages.

Finally, Christopher Small concentrates on another of the twentieth century’s key literary figures. Although not a Scot, George Orwell is associated with Jura through his residence there. Small’s account of Orwell’s last years, during which his novel ‘Nineteen Eighty-Four’ was written, notes how Orwell’s appreciation of Scotland was radically altered by his first-hand experience of the country.

These contributing authors make an important contributions to our knowledge and understanding of aspects of Islay and Argyll’s language, place-names, culture, history and literature. The collection is a valuable addition to the literature on the area, and will be of interest to islanders and people of Argyll wishing to delve ‘that bit deeper’ into the history of the area. This book is a tribute to this ‘land that lies westward’; one of the most beautiful, distinctive and fascinating parts of Scotland.

Edited by J. Derrick McClure, John. M. Kirk and Margaret Storrie John Donald/Birlinn Ltd., Edinburgh 2009. 244pp. Pbk. £25. This book can be ordered online at Amazon for £ 23.75

Amazon Product description: “This book is a fascinating collection of new studies by leading scholars on central aspects of the languages, literatures, place-names, culture and history of the Isles of Islay and Jura and along the western seaboard of Argyll. It includes major re-assessments of the nineteenth-century Islay poet William Livingston, and an analysis of the Scots found in the poems of Tarbert poet George Campbell Hay. It describes the Gaelic of Jura and Islay as well as the patterns of place-names. In view of the proximity of these regions to Ulster, there are several fresh accounts of historical, cultural and genealogical exchange and crossover. The book ends with a new appreciation of Orwell’s time on Jura.”

Book review by Susan Campbell, co-author of the Southern Hebrides website.

Tobermory Distillery late 1800s

Nowadays the Tobermory distillery website states the following: “It takes something unique to create an Island Single Malt Scotch Whisky. There is a unique blend of location, ingredients, timing and people. Just as Mull is a special place, nestled on the West Coast of Scotland and Tobermory is a unique distillery, as the only one on the island, the people who craft our island spirit are artisans of their craft.” It’s interesting to see what Alfred Barnard wrote of his visit of the Tobermory Distillery back in the late 1800s.

THE voyage from Oban to Tobermory in fine weather is one of the pleasantest imaginable; the scenery is described in many of the guide hooks, but none of them have ever done it justice. After passing the ruins of Aros Castle, we obtained a fine view of Benmore, 3,097 feet above sea level, the highest mountain in Mull, and for the next two hours we feasted our eyes on scenery of surpassing beauty. Steaming round the island of Calve, we entered the bay, at the head of which stands Tobermory, “the well of our Lady St. Mary.”

The Island of Mull is uneven and mountainous, but nevertheless the soil is deep and fertile, therefore better adapted for pasturage than Skye, to which is land it bears great resemblance. It has, however, a very boisterous coast, a wet and stormy climate and an unpromising: and trackless surf ace, redeemed by a few sheltered spots here and there at the heads of bays or indents of the sea. In ancient times woods were so numerous in Mull as to be celebrated for their extent and beauty, but with the exception of Tobermory they have long since vanished. The mountains rise in terraces, by stages from the shore, the highest being Benmore, which we saw from the boat; the next, Benychat, 2,294 feet above sea level.

The town of Tobermory is encircled by high precipitous banks, above which the ground rises in a series of gentle sloping hills. There is a good steamboat quay, well served by Mr. MacBrayne’s swift steamers from Glasgow and Oban. Formerly the communication was once a week, now it is daily throughout the year. The Island of Mull is generally mountainous and bare, but in the vicinity of Tobermory the scenery is very beautiful and romantic. To the left of the town is Drumfin, better known by the name of St. Mary’s Lake, one of the most charming spots in the district, and Drumfin Castle, situated between two beautifully wooded hills. In close proximity is the celebrated St. Mary’s Well, a Spring of the purest water, dedicated ages ago to the Blessed Virgin, and there are many persons still living in Tobermory who not only venerate it, but still use its waters in preference to all other and. nearer sources, for domestic purposes. Tobermory Bay is protected from the winds and waves by the Island of Calve, which renders it one of the most secure havens on the coast; whilst for beauty of position and, surroundings the little picturesque town, with its richly wooded shores, will compare favourably with Oban.

Sacheveril says of Tobermory: “Its sequestered beauty and indulgent Shades resemble Italian scenery.” We have never visited that sunny land nevertheless we appreciated the glories of Tobermory, and wondered within ourselves that a place possessing such charms, fine hotel accommodation, and withal so come-at-able, should apparently be so neglected. As we steamed into the harbour the captain pointed out the spot, Just below Drumfin, where the Spanish ship “Florida,” one of the Invincible Armada, was sunk by an emissary of Queen Elizabeth. Many attempts have been mad~ to raise the ship, all of which have, been unsuccessful; but guns of brass and Iron have been brought up, two of which are still to be seen at Dunstaffnage. The Distillery is planted at the head of the bay, and stands al most underneath a lofty and perpendicular rock. This hill is relieved by masses of the greenest foliage, which here and there seem to hold some fantastically shaped rock in their soft embrace, whilst at its base shrubs and ferns grow in wild confusion. On landing we committed our luggage to the care of an attendant from the Western Isles Hotel, and then proceeded direct to the Distillery.

As usual, we commenced our observations with the water supply, which is literally inexhaustible, and comes from the burn called the” Tobermory river,” flowing past the Distillery into the sea. It has its source in the celebrated Misnish Lochs, and in its downward progress tumbles over huge rocks, forming nearly twenty cascades of from twelve to twenty feet, culminating in a grand waterfall of nearly sixty feet, close to the walls of the Distillery, as seen in our illustration. The burn runs through a thickly wooded and deep glen, and ferns of almost every description grow to the water’s edge just above the last cascade a stream from St Mary’s Well joins farces with the waters of the burn, and the addition of this water has given its present reputation to Mull Whisky.

The Distillery, which was established in 1823, covers two and a half acres of ground, and is built with stone in the form of a double triangle. There arc two en trances, both by covered archways, one on the side of the steep hill near the waterfall, the other from the main road facing the sea. The Barley used is from Ross and Inverness-shires, shipped therefrom by Mr. MacBrayne’s steamers, and carted up from the wharf by some of the finest Clydesdale horses on the island. On reaching the Works, we introduced ourselves to Mr. Robert Simpson who acts as Manager and Distiller, and was trained to the business from boyhood. He conducted us first to the Granaries and Maltings, a crescent-shaped building, measuring 163 feet long by 24 broad, divided into three flats, all of which arc entered by an old-fashioned outside stone staircase. The top flat is used for storing the barley, and holds a thousand quarters. The other two have concreted floors and are used for malting, each possesses a metal Steep capable of welling 280 bushels at one time.

At the south end of these Maltings is placed the Kiln, an elevated building 32 by 25 feet, floored with wire cloth and heated by peat, which is dug on the estate a short distance from the Works. The furnace in which the peats are fired is enclosed in sheet iron sloping to the drying floor above. Ascending a long and narrow staircase and crossing a passage, we came to the Malt deposit, which consists of two spacious floors well lighted. A wing of this building farms the Mill, which contains the usual malt rollers driven by water- power. The pulverized malt is lifted by elevators from this chamber to the grist loft, and afterwards filled into sacks ready for use. after a short walk we turned up an alley enclosed by a high building, which brings us to the Mash House on the west side of the .quadrangle, a building 72 feet by 28, where, placed on an elevated platform is the Iron Mash-tun, 17 feet in diameter and 5 feet deep. Here our guide pointed out the Mashing Machine suspended over the Tun, and informed us that the sacks of grist already referred to were tipped into a hopper which reeds this Machine. The Mash Tun contains the usual stirring gear driven by water-power, and is capable of mashing 350 bushels at one time. There are two Brewing Tanks constructed with timber placed on brick piers, they can contain 3,365 gallons and are heated by steam.

On the ground we observed an Under-back with a timber cover, holding 3,000 gallons, from which the worts are pumped up to a Miller’s Refrigerator, whence they run by gravitation to the Wash- backs. Crossing a passage we now came to the Tun Room which is on a higher level than the Mash House. This Hall is 40 feet long, 20 broad and 30 high, built with stone and well lighted. Therein, and ranged along the wall, are four Wash-backs holding 7,384, 7,427, 7,381 and 7,347 gallons respectively, all of which are switched by water power. Passing out at the northern end we came to the Wash-charger which is placed on a brick pedestal twelve feet high, so as to command the Stills. We next bent our steps to the Distilling House and were there shown two “Old Pot Stills,” the Wash Still holding 2,530 gallons, and the Spirit Still 1,710 gallons, the farmer heated by fire and the latter by steam. The Worm Tub is outside the Still House on an elevation, and red direct from the Burn. Here we observed the two Water Wheels, one of them is very large, being twenty-five feet in diameter, the other is a much smaller one and used only for the Rummagers and Switchers.

We returned to the Still House and ascended by same steps to a gallery 10ft at the east-end of the building where Mr. Simpson directed our attention to the Receivers and Chargers. They comprise a Low- wines Receiver and Charger of 1,200 gallons content, a Feint’s Receiver and Charger, 1,200 gallons, and a Spirit Receiver holding 1,259 gallons; here also there is a Refrigerator of superior make, and the Spirit safe. We descended by another war and found ourselves at, the second entrance gates having almost completed a circuit of the buildings. On the left of the gateway we entered the Spirit Store, a neat building, which contains the Spirit Vat holding 2,400 gallons and the Casking Apparatus. Next door is the Engine Department where we were shown a little five-horse power Engine for the Pumps, and a Boiler 24 feet long and 8 feet in diameter. All the grinding and mashing is clone by the Water Wheel driven by the Tobermory River. The Buildings opposite consist of two Bonded Warehouses containing at present 2,000 casks of Whisky. Over the Main Entrance are situated the Partners’ Offices, whilst those for the manager, Clerks and the Excise are in the adjoining building.

On the premises there is a large Peat Shed, Cooperage and Carpenter’s Shop. Twenty persons are employed in the Distillery and Mr. Ferguson is the chief Excise Officer. Messrs. Mackill Bros. are noted breeders of cattle, which consume a greater portion of the Burnt Ale and Draff on a large farm in the immediate neighbourhood.

The make is called “Mull Whisky”; it is pure Highland Malt, and the annual output (1885) was 62,000 gallons.

Columba Centre Bowmore Islay

The programme for this years festival is as follows:

Friday 2nd October
7.15pm – 9.30pm Session A
I Know Where I’m Going Revisited (dir. Mark Cousins, 1994) 30min
I Know Where I’m Going (dir. Michael Powell & Emeric Pressburger, 1945) 91 min

Saturday 3rd October

10.00am – 12.15pm Session B
Blackman’s Houses (dir. Steve Thomas, 1992), 58 min
Being Rapanui (dir. Susan & Santi Hitorangi, 2007) 56 min

4.30pm – 6.00pm Session C
The Island Tapes [St Kilda (dir. David Allison, 2008); A New Way to A New World (dir. Peter Murray, 2008] 16 min + 15 min
Act of War: The Overthrow of the Hawai’ian Nation (dir. Puhipau & Joan Lander, 1993), 58 min

7.30 pm – 9.45pm Session D
Home and Away (dir. Mike Alexander, 1974) 30 min
The Adventures of Robinson Crusoe (dir. Luis Bu?uel, 1952) 90 min

On Saturday a selection of Gaelic documentaries and Film G shorts will also be available for viewing in the Library Resource Centre. All Sessions: £15(£10 con.) Individual Session: £4 (£2 con.) Full Festival & film details on: eileananbeaga.wordpress.com

Another reason for this blog post has something to do with the population on Coll, which is currently around 200 people. There is an interesting story to tell about the decline and growth of the islands population. The following article appeared in the Oban Times titled Isle Of Coll Population Explosion and was written by Moira Kerr:

The Scottish island of Coll is enjoying a population explosion with the number of residents now at its highest for 30 years, up 70 per cent compared to the 1981 census. And one couple, whose four children have all moved back to Coll to raise their own sons and daughters, have received the community’s “Oscar” for best breeder, as their family of 21 now make up almost ten per cent of the island’s population. There were 131 people living on Coll in 1961, when the island, which lies in the Inner Hebrides, had no electricity and relied on gas heating and lighting. But today the numbers have soared to 228, with the island bucking national trends to boast a bumper population of children, with 56 under-16s, including 22 at high school, 20 at primary school, eight of pre-school age and 12 under-threes.

Island nurse Esther MacRae, who has lived on Coll for 35 years, said: “I remember, at one time, in the 1970s, the population went down to 104, although that wasn’t at the time of a census. Improved transport links and the coming of electricity has changed it.” Julie Oliphant, who has been running Coll Hotel with her husband Kevin for the last 25 years, said the island’s population was really booming at the moment. She said: “When we came here the population was 150 but now it’s going up and there are babies everywhere. “There are lots of young families here now. They have decided that this is the perfect place to bring up their children.”

One family in particular is contributing to the island’s vibrant population more than most. For all four of Brian and Moira MacIntyre’s children have now come back to Coll to raise their own families. The couple’s immediate family on the island number 21 and Mr MacIntyre, 61, said: “We are told that we now make up around ten per cent of the population. I think the population was 123 and there were five children at the local primary school when we moved here 23 years ago, but now there are 20 pupils at the primary school and it will go up to 25 next year.” He added: “We moved here from mainland Argyll and our four children all grew up here and then went away travelling around the world, or away to work. Now they are all back, with our eleven grandchildren. Mr MacIntyre, who is a farmer, said: “There was a charity fund raising ceremony on the island a couple of weeks ago and we got the Oscar for best ‘breeder’ on the island! Just because you are divided by a bit of water, some people think we are isolated here, but I don’t think we are.”

Seonaid Maclean-Bristol and her husband Alex moved here from London five years ago, back to the island where he grew up. The couple now have three children. Mrs Maclean-Bristol said they made a conscious decision to give up better paid jobs in the city to reap the rewards of a better lifestyle on the island. An improved ferry service and a new air link to Oban are helping to make the island more attractive to young families. However, the island’s population has a long way to go to reach past heights. In the late 1700s there were about 1,000 people living on Coll with the main industries farming and fishing.