Always for me the last two mentioned were very near to the top of the list, and one cruise to Ardmore with a family party of five was quite memorable. Leaving Crinan the weather was perfect, and with a light westerly breeze Ailsa, eldest daughter of the family and all of seven years (roughly), competently took the tiller for a spell reaching down the Sound of Jura. I shouldn’t have been surprised as her mother is a Shetlander. She took a keen interest in passing sea-birds, so I got her to make a list and identify each one as we coasted along. At the end of the day I asked her what the score was. “Fourteen, if you count goats and jellyfish!” she told me.

Entering the Ardmore Island environment is tricky, with islets and rocks all over the place, but nosing your way in gently you can find lovely wee corners, sheltered from wind and sea in any direction. The adult seals are quite confiding, and the pups leap like salmon around the boat. Ducks and cormorants perch or cruise about contentedly, and very often a herd of fallow deer graze round the shore. And on this occasion, we had just dropped anchor close up to a rock and were letting Harmony drop back on her chain when an otter climbed on to the rock with a big fish and chewed away at it, ignoring us completely. Beautiful, just, and I don’t think Plod nan Sgeirean ever disappointed anybody. As a bonus, Kildalton Cross is within walking/scrambling distance; approaching it from the sea is somehow more of an adventure, and much more satisfying than driving to it by road.

On this particular trip we went onwards the next day, through the Sound of Islay to West Loch Tarbert, Jura, and the kids –and their parents- were gobsmacked by that wild and wonderful corner of Jura, with it’s spectacular raised beaches, and waterfalls (one in particular which we used to refer to as the shower room!) and deer, and goats that made Billy Goat Gruff look like a cissy. Curiously, and a little sadly, last year Ailsa –now married- and her husband spent a few days on Jura expressly so that she could show him the places that so bewitched her as a child (especially West Loch Tarbert, Jura) but they were barred ‘because of the shooters’; I felt her disappointment when she told me.

The West Loch is wide, and open, narrowing gradually as it cuts inland to almost cut Jura in two, and from it’s head it is only about a mile overland before you hit the east shore. It is full of nooks and bays, and intriguing corners to anchor in; and quite nasty rocks, but Lord Astor many years ago had several sets of leading marks built on land which lead you all the way in through both sets of narrows, or ‘doors’. Just inside the second narrows, is a sublime little bay that I love, which is totally sheltered from anything the sea can throw at you, and you can sleep as soundly as in bed at home. The bottom is soft mud which stinks a bit, and that got me once when we were setting off in the morning, for after weighing the anchor Harmony refused to move, perfectly upright but her keel lovingly clasped by the mud, and the crew said what next? So I suggested morning coffee, and by the time we had enjoyed that the rising tide persuaded the bottom to let us go, and off we went.

One truly memorable happening in that corner, was when we had just arrived and anchored with some friends, and Alison announced that “This is our thirtieth wedding anniversary!” and produced a card for Eric; and a bottle of champagne. So in warm sunshine we sat in the cockpit and toasted them, and Alison, a keen bird-watcher said “It’s a pity there are no birds to see here”, at which I pointed to the cliff at the narrows and said a pair of peregrine falcons lived there: at this the two birds took of and circled above us, on cue. Then a pair of hen harriers suddenly appeared a couple of hundred feet above them, also circling, the male especially spectacular in his black and white livery. “It just can’t get any better than this!” said Alison, leaning back and absorbing the scene. “It just has, look!” I said, as two golden eagles drifted into sight, and joined the circling column a few hundred feet higher. So we felt we had to toast the birds as well, which we did, with a handy bottle of liquid Chilean sunshine. A memorable encounter, in one of my favourite anchorages: over in a few short moments, but never forgotten.

Probably the most exciting anchorage to visit on the two islands is ‘The bay of the glen of pigs’ in the Corryvreckan: only to be entered at slack water, or with a slight ebb tide running against you. And if the flood tide is running you don’t come out until it’s over! But to sit quietly and calmly at anchor, by an open beach of white sand, surrounded by deer-populated hills and goat- populated cliffs, and see and hear the flood tide going past like a train, is quite spectacular. We would spend the night there occasionally, if next morning the tidal state let you out at a time to go where and when it suited you, but if not it was always a coveted stop by charterers. Once we had a short break there and watched the Waverley pass through westwards, towards Iona.

Undoubtedly, the west coast of Scotland to me is the best sailing area in the world, with its islands, and sounds, and hundreds of anchorages, each with it’s own personality, and delights peculiar to itself. If I was ever pressed on my favourite anchorage anywhere in the Western Isles I would never expressly name one. There are literally dozens of desirable corners around where I loved to drop the hook but I could never leave West Loch Tarbert, Jura out. Is that an answer?

Back to Colonsay now. Scalasaig is a wee, albeit the largest settlement, spread over quite a large area and has, besides a hotel, brewery, and a beautiful church an excellent shop annex post office annex petrol station. The reason why I mention this shop is that when you’re out and about for a day on Colonsay you might want to stock up first because this is in fact the only shop on the island. If you’re a day tripper from Islay you’ll have about six hours to discover the island before you have to return to Scalasaig for the return ferry.

If you’re a first time visitor of Colonsay and arrive at Scalasaig either with a car of bike you’re probably doing the circular road which starts and ends in Scalasaig. The best known attractions on Colonsay are Kiloran Bay in the north-west of the island, Colonsay House and Gardens in the centre of the island, the House of Lochar bookshop in the west not far from the golf course/landing strip and Oronsay with it’s priory in the south. The island is also an excellent place to to discover by foot

Of course there are other means of visiting Colonsay besides a day trip to the island from Islay. The island has direct ferry and air services with Oban. Colonsay has some excellent facilities such as b&b’s, guesthouses, a hotel and a good selection of self catering cottages which makes the island a perfect destination for a longer stay. For more information you can visit the Colonsay page on this site or the Colonsay community website

Gareth: North-west seven to severe gale nine, backing south-west five to six. Rough or very rough.” The forecast on the television in our cabin spoke volumes: for once, the crew of the Hebridean Princess would not be pushing the boat out for us. The sea was too rough to go ashore by motor launch for a visit to one of Islay’s famous distilleries. Guests wouldn’t have been digesting their breakfast, they’d have been wearing it. Not that the 30 or so passengers aboard appeared to mind. If you’re going to cruise the Inner Hebrides in early November you have to expect a few alterations to your schedule. And there can be few more pleasant places to be stuck than the Princess, a floating palace of pampering. From the minute you step aboard to be greeted by the chief purser, to the moment when you walk down the gangway for the last time, the officers and crew attend to your every need. When you enter your cabin, a decanter of malt whisky is waiting. Leave your cabin in a mess and it will be tidy when you return, however brief your absence. And there’s no chance of emptying your wine glass at lunch or dinner before a sommelier arrives to top it up. The crew – a mix of British seamen and “hotel” staff who are mostly from the Baltic states – are there to please, and do their job superbly.

The cruise started from Oban on a dreich Wednesday that had never managed to get properly light. When we visited Torosay Castle on Mull, we walked back instead of waiting for the bus. And at Crinan, on the Kintyre peninsula, we borrowed bikes to cycle the length of the canal. We also used the bikes for a round trip of the beautiful island of Colonsay, the visual highlight of a cruise filled with quite stunning scenery. And when the ship moored at Tobermory for a morning’s shopping – not something my partner or I regard as a legitimate leisure activity – the first officer was happy to take us for a spin round the bay in the ship’s speedboat. Much of the pleasure on the cruise, though, was simply that – cruising slowly between the coast and the Inner Hebrides, sitting in the lounge or the glassed-in conservatories on each side of the ship, or standing on the open Skye deck at the stern, enjoying the kind of views that compare well with anything on the planet. One passenger who had never seen the west coast kept making exclamations of pleasure at the sight of the landscape.

Some facts about the Hebridean Island Cruises: Hebridean Island Cruises begins its 2010 itinerary on 1 March. Its last sailing begins on 16 November. Prices range from £986 per person up to £11,020, depending on which cruise you opt for, the time of year and the type of cabin. For more details call the company’s Skipton head office on 01756 704704 or visit www.hebridean.co.uk

Duart Castle from the Mull Ferry

Vicky also mentioned something about fish and chips: “The best fish and chips in all of Scotland are served daily from a food caravan on the Tobermory Pier. to convince you have a look here. The site has an interesting article: “The Prince of Wales gave a fish-and-chip van the royal seal of approval as he paid a visit to Scotland yesterday.” They report that, “The Prince tasted fresh scallops from the Fisherman’s Pier chip van in Tobermory, Mull, and declared them “delicious”,” before adding that, “Owners Jeanette Gallagher and Jane MacLean were delighted to serve the royal visitor with some local produce.” According to Vicky The line starts forming a good half hour before they open. Bring your own napkins and plan to eat standing up unless you can find a curb or lobster pot to sit on.

Tobermory Distillery late 1800s

Nowadays the Tobermory distillery website states the following: “It takes something unique to create an Island Single Malt Scotch Whisky. There is a unique blend of location, ingredients, timing and people. Just as Mull is a special place, nestled on the West Coast of Scotland and Tobermory is a unique distillery, as the only one on the island, the people who craft our island spirit are artisans of their craft.” It’s interesting to see what Alfred Barnard wrote of his visit of the Tobermory Distillery back in the late 1800s.

THE voyage from Oban to Tobermory in fine weather is one of the pleasantest imaginable; the scenery is described in many of the guide hooks, but none of them have ever done it justice. After passing the ruins of Aros Castle, we obtained a fine view of Benmore, 3,097 feet above sea level, the highest mountain in Mull, and for the next two hours we feasted our eyes on scenery of surpassing beauty. Steaming round the island of Calve, we entered the bay, at the head of which stands Tobermory, “the well of our Lady St. Mary.”

The Island of Mull is uneven and mountainous, but nevertheless the soil is deep and fertile, therefore better adapted for pasturage than Skye, to which is land it bears great resemblance. It has, however, a very boisterous coast, a wet and stormy climate and an unpromising: and trackless surf ace, redeemed by a few sheltered spots here and there at the heads of bays or indents of the sea. In ancient times woods were so numerous in Mull as to be celebrated for their extent and beauty, but with the exception of Tobermory they have long since vanished. The mountains rise in terraces, by stages from the shore, the highest being Benmore, which we saw from the boat; the next, Benychat, 2,294 feet above sea level.

The town of Tobermory is encircled by high precipitous banks, above which the ground rises in a series of gentle sloping hills. There is a good steamboat quay, well served by Mr. MacBrayne’s swift steamers from Glasgow and Oban. Formerly the communication was once a week, now it is daily throughout the year. The Island of Mull is generally mountainous and bare, but in the vicinity of Tobermory the scenery is very beautiful and romantic. To the left of the town is Drumfin, better known by the name of St. Mary’s Lake, one of the most charming spots in the district, and Drumfin Castle, situated between two beautifully wooded hills. In close proximity is the celebrated St. Mary’s Well, a Spring of the purest water, dedicated ages ago to the Blessed Virgin, and there are many persons still living in Tobermory who not only venerate it, but still use its waters in preference to all other and. nearer sources, for domestic purposes. Tobermory Bay is protected from the winds and waves by the Island of Calve, which renders it one of the most secure havens on the coast; whilst for beauty of position and, surroundings the little picturesque town, with its richly wooded shores, will compare favourably with Oban.

Sacheveril says of Tobermory: “Its sequestered beauty and indulgent Shades resemble Italian scenery.” We have never visited that sunny land nevertheless we appreciated the glories of Tobermory, and wondered within ourselves that a place possessing such charms, fine hotel accommodation, and withal so come-at-able, should apparently be so neglected. As we steamed into the harbour the captain pointed out the spot, Just below Drumfin, where the Spanish ship “Florida,” one of the Invincible Armada, was sunk by an emissary of Queen Elizabeth. Many attempts have been mad~ to raise the ship, all of which have, been unsuccessful; but guns of brass and Iron have been brought up, two of which are still to be seen at Dunstaffnage. The Distillery is planted at the head of the bay, and stands al most underneath a lofty and perpendicular rock. This hill is relieved by masses of the greenest foliage, which here and there seem to hold some fantastically shaped rock in their soft embrace, whilst at its base shrubs and ferns grow in wild confusion. On landing we committed our luggage to the care of an attendant from the Western Isles Hotel, and then proceeded direct to the Distillery.

As usual, we commenced our observations with the water supply, which is literally inexhaustible, and comes from the burn called the” Tobermory river,” flowing past the Distillery into the sea. It has its source in the celebrated Misnish Lochs, and in its downward progress tumbles over huge rocks, forming nearly twenty cascades of from twelve to twenty feet, culminating in a grand waterfall of nearly sixty feet, close to the walls of the Distillery, as seen in our illustration. The burn runs through a thickly wooded and deep glen, and ferns of almost every description grow to the water’s edge just above the last cascade a stream from St Mary’s Well joins farces with the waters of the burn, and the addition of this water has given its present reputation to Mull Whisky.

The Distillery, which was established in 1823, covers two and a half acres of ground, and is built with stone in the form of a double triangle. There arc two en trances, both by covered archways, one on the side of the steep hill near the waterfall, the other from the main road facing the sea. The Barley used is from Ross and Inverness-shires, shipped therefrom by Mr. MacBrayne’s steamers, and carted up from the wharf by some of the finest Clydesdale horses on the island. On reaching the Works, we introduced ourselves to Mr. Robert Simpson who acts as Manager and Distiller, and was trained to the business from boyhood. He conducted us first to the Granaries and Maltings, a crescent-shaped building, measuring 163 feet long by 24 broad, divided into three flats, all of which arc entered by an old-fashioned outside stone staircase. The top flat is used for storing the barley, and holds a thousand quarters. The other two have concreted floors and are used for malting, each possesses a metal Steep capable of welling 280 bushels at one time.

At the south end of these Maltings is placed the Kiln, an elevated building 32 by 25 feet, floored with wire cloth and heated by peat, which is dug on the estate a short distance from the Works. The furnace in which the peats are fired is enclosed in sheet iron sloping to the drying floor above. Ascending a long and narrow staircase and crossing a passage, we came to the Malt deposit, which consists of two spacious floors well lighted. A wing of this building farms the Mill, which contains the usual malt rollers driven by water- power. The pulverized malt is lifted by elevators from this chamber to the grist loft, and afterwards filled into sacks ready for use. after a short walk we turned up an alley enclosed by a high building, which brings us to the Mash House on the west side of the .quadrangle, a building 72 feet by 28, where, placed on an elevated platform is the Iron Mash-tun, 17 feet in diameter and 5 feet deep. Here our guide pointed out the Mashing Machine suspended over the Tun, and informed us that the sacks of grist already referred to were tipped into a hopper which reeds this Machine. The Mash Tun contains the usual stirring gear driven by water-power, and is capable of mashing 350 bushels at one time. There are two Brewing Tanks constructed with timber placed on brick piers, they can contain 3,365 gallons and are heated by steam.

On the ground we observed an Under-back with a timber cover, holding 3,000 gallons, from which the worts are pumped up to a Miller’s Refrigerator, whence they run by gravitation to the Wash- backs. Crossing a passage we now came to the Tun Room which is on a higher level than the Mash House. This Hall is 40 feet long, 20 broad and 30 high, built with stone and well lighted. Therein, and ranged along the wall, are four Wash-backs holding 7,384, 7,427, 7,381 and 7,347 gallons respectively, all of which are switched by water power. Passing out at the northern end we came to the Wash-charger which is placed on a brick pedestal twelve feet high, so as to command the Stills. We next bent our steps to the Distilling House and were there shown two “Old Pot Stills,” the Wash Still holding 2,530 gallons, and the Spirit Still 1,710 gallons, the farmer heated by fire and the latter by steam. The Worm Tub is outside the Still House on an elevation, and red direct from the Burn. Here we observed the two Water Wheels, one of them is very large, being twenty-five feet in diameter, the other is a much smaller one and used only for the Rummagers and Switchers.

We returned to the Still House and ascended by same steps to a gallery 10ft at the east-end of the building where Mr. Simpson directed our attention to the Receivers and Chargers. They comprise a Low- wines Receiver and Charger of 1,200 gallons content, a Feint’s Receiver and Charger, 1,200 gallons, and a Spirit Receiver holding 1,259 gallons; here also there is a Refrigerator of superior make, and the Spirit safe. We descended by another war and found ourselves at, the second entrance gates having almost completed a circuit of the buildings. On the left of the gateway we entered the Spirit Store, a neat building, which contains the Spirit Vat holding 2,400 gallons and the Casking Apparatus. Next door is the Engine Department where we were shown a little five-horse power Engine for the Pumps, and a Boiler 24 feet long and 8 feet in diameter. All the grinding and mashing is clone by the Water Wheel driven by the Tobermory River. The Buildings opposite consist of two Bonded Warehouses containing at present 2,000 casks of Whisky. Over the Main Entrance are situated the Partners’ Offices, whilst those for the manager, Clerks and the Excise are in the adjoining building.

On the premises there is a large Peat Shed, Cooperage and Carpenter’s Shop. Twenty persons are employed in the Distillery and Mr. Ferguson is the chief Excise Officer. Messrs. Mackill Bros. are noted breeders of cattle, which consume a greater portion of the Burnt Ale and Draff on a large farm in the immediate neighbourhood.

The make is called “Mull Whisky”; it is pure Highland Malt, and the annual output (1885) was 62,000 gallons.

Lochaline Morvern seen from the Calmac Ferry

The ferry crossing takes about 10 minutes and when you head for Tobermory you enter the longest stretch of “normal road”, the A849, which stretches all the way from Tobermory in the north to Fionnphort in the south-west, gateway for Iona. All the other roads on Mull are single track. The first stretch of our trip took us from Fishnish passing Salen Bay to Tobermory. We had great views over the Sound of Mull towards Morvern and when a heavy rain shower passed we were rewarded with a beautiful rainbow.

Rainbow Sound of Mull

Tobermory is a colourful town, very picturesque and well equipped for visitors and locals alike. Important buildings in the town include Tobermory Clock Tower, a museum, the Tobermory Scotch whisky distillery, the Isle of Mull Brewery, and an arts centre. We had a nice stroll and were lucky that the rain stayed away, in fact the sun came out and we decided to continue our journey to the west.

Tobermory Isle of Mull

The road out of Tobermory to Dervaig is magnificent with Mishnish Lochs on the left while the road climbs higher and higher to Achnadrish. The views are sometimes breathtaking and you feel like being alone on the island. It will probably be different in the summer but in late February it was so very quiet, which was an added bonus. Dervaig is a wee village with a remarkable church tower, all white and rounded off. I haven’t seen anything like it elsewhere in Scotland.

Calgary Bay in the North of Mull

We headed for Calgary Bay in the far north-west of Mull and were lucky that a huge shower had passed just before we arrived. Calgary Bay is beautiful with it’s magnificent sandy beach, blue-green water and surrounding hills. Well worth a visit! We continued south over the B8073 towards Ensay and Tresnhish, probably named after the Treshnish Isles, a couple of miles south-west of Treshnish Point. Usually you get to see the Isle of Coll but another shower arrived so we headed south-east and enjoyed the magnificent road and views.

Mull Loch Tuath and Treshnish Isles in the distance

When you arrive at Tostarie you get to see dramatic views of Loch Tuach and the isles of Gometra, Ulva and further out to sea, to the west, the Treshnish Isles. We enjoyed this stretch of road immensely with its ever changing light, moods and views. There are several places here where you can stop and enjoy the scenery which is what we did as well.

Dramatic Light Sound of Ulva

Just passed Lagganulva which is nothing more than a couple of houses and a school, is a road to the right that takes you to the Ulva Ferry pier. There is no access for cars to Ulva which makes the island even more interesting for a visit, unfortunately we had to save that for some other time. Heading back for the main road towards Salen we stopped on a passing place overlooking the Sound of Ulva with more breathtaking views to the isles of Eorsa, Inch Kenneth and the high cliffs on the left which I believe belong to Creadh Bheinn. The sun broke through some dark clouds which gave extremely dramatic views somehow fitting to the stunning landscape.

Loch na Keal Isle of Mull

The road from Killiemor to Kellan along Loch na Keal usually offers splendid views of Ben More, with 966 metres the highest mountain on the Isle of Mull. Today however clouds covered the summit but the views of the loch and the light conditions made up for that. It was now 4pm and we headed back to Fishnish to catch the last ferry to Lochaline. It was a memorable day and we had a magnificent tour over the most beautiful part of Mull. I’m sure there is a lot more to discover which is all the more reason for a return visit.